When to Say NO!
By Brad Yates
"Hey… think about it, swimming or paddling out and taking off on a wave is not an automatic." The voice is Mark Cunningham, former Pipeline Lifeguard and world class waterman. Today he is Lieutenant Mark Cunningham, City and County LifeGuard speaking to me on water safety in winter waves. Cunningham continues, "There is so much pressure and hype to go for it, to push the limits, to be extreme. But you should think about what you are getting into before you swim or paddle out on the North Shore. Any fool can swim or paddle out; it is knowing how to get back in, or just stay in that counts! Too many times I have been part of unhappy and unnecessary rescues that involved surfers who over estimated their swimming and surfing skills. A board breaks, a leash snaps, fins are lost and now you are forced to swim against a rip that is taking you out to sea or through a massive shore-break." Cunningham's advice is well taken, a timely reminder for all of us, from the seasoned pro to the first timers who are planning to surf winter waves.
Drama and the Moment of Truth
The power and potential size of winter surf creates drama, this excitement can pump you up, it draws you in. If you are going to charge it… sooner or later you will come face to face with a moment of truth. This is the moment when your ability has met its match. The question is; should you paddle in and not take off OR not paddle out at all? The challenge here is to know when the drama is worth it and when the drama will be an unnecessary risk to you and others.
Keep It Simple
To surf the power and be safe, you need to know when to choose MORE extreme to push your limits and when to choose LESS extreme and be honest with yourself… JUST SAY NO! Remember the words of Lieutenant Cunningham; "think about it." Please evaluate your decision to surf winter waves and make the right choice for your skill level, once again MORE or LESS extreme.
By definition, EXTREME is an act that pushes the limits of your skills, fitness and will. To choose MORE extreme you need to evaluate your decision in terms of ability to survive the unexpected and handle the rush inside of you… this is your moment of truth.
Fuel the Fire; be true to yourself, tear it apart and have fun.