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The series of the articles that follow will contain the lessons I learned from surfing Sunset Beach from 1972 to 1979. I was 31 years old when I started down that path.
- Thinking Make’s it So
- Get Home Before Dark
- The Embassy
- Three Faces of Her Beauty
- Eddie, BK and the Aussies
- Stay In Process
- When It's Over
During this time I did not miss a swell. I was in tune with the place. In short, I was devoted to learning how to get waves no matter how big, stormy or crowded it was. Over time I learned my limits for size, conditions and crowds, as well as my capacity to rise to the challenge.