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Lessons Learned...

From seven years of Surfing Sunset

· Lessons Learned

The series of the articles that follow will contain the lessons I learned from surfing Sunset Beach from 1972 to 1979. I was 31 years old when I started down that path.

  1. Thinking Make’s it So
  2. Get Home Before Dark
  3. The Embassy
  4. Three Faces of Her Beauty
  5. Eddie, BK and the Aussies
  6. Stay In Process
  7. When It's Over

During this time I did not miss a swell. I was in tune with the place. In short, I was devoted to learning how to get waves no matter how big, stormy or crowded it was. Over time I learned my limits for size, conditions and crowds, as well as my capacity to rise to the challenge.

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