The series of the articles that follow will contain the lessons I learned from surfing Sunset Beach from 1972 to 1979. I was 31 years old when I started down that path.
During this time I did not miss a swell. I was in tune with the place. In short, I was devoted to learning how to get waves no matter how big, stormy or crowded it was. Over time I learned my limits for size, conditions and crowds, as well as my capacity to rise to the challenge.
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