The series of the articles that follow will contain the lessons I learned from surfing Sunset Beach from 1972 to 1979. I was 31 years old when I started down that path.
During this time I did not miss a swell. I was in tune with the place. In short, I was devoted to learning how to get waves no matter how big, stormy or crowded it was. Over time I learned my limits for size, conditions and crowds, as well as my capacity to rise to the challenge.
Almost done…
We just sent you an email. Please click the link in the email to confirm your subscription!